The Wedding Lingerie

Well, my plans for the lingerie ended up all over the place. I did make the bra and I will be making the camisole, but left out the tap shorts and the underwear. I just didn’t want to fiddle with the bottoms and have been feeling stressed by it and not wanting to do it. Instead, I bought some white stretchy shorts with lace on the bottoms and some lace underwear to match my bra. I will blog about the camisole another time and include a review. The pattern I am using for the camisole is the Savannah camisole from Seamwork mag. So, this post just includes my bra. Oh the grand plans that come down to one thing while I co-plan a wedding…

The Bra:

Since making my cloned Elomi bra, I was pretty psyched to get to making another bra with the tweaks to the pattern. Before making the bra for my wedding, though, I had to make another test bra.

From the last bra, I shortened the band, narrowed the bridge, increased the lower cup and accounted for the stretch in the lace for the upper cup. I also shortened and narrowed the straps.

Outside:

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Inside:

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The “test” bra is in fuchsia duoplex, black powernet, and fuchsia elastics/findings from Bra Maker’s Supply and black and fuchsia stretch lace from a local store. The fit is almost perfect. The band ended up tighter than I expected, but still okay. Not uncomfortable unless I eat a big meal. The bridge still doesn’t sit flat in this version. It’s a little difficult to understand how this bra works in the flat version. The stretch lace is narrow at the top so the bra looks like the straps are close together. On me, however, they are in the correct position. To give you an idea of that, I put the bra cup on a balloon:

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It’s hilarious to me that the balloon is still not big enough for that cup and I still find the cup a little small…

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Unfortunately, the lace in this version got a couple little holes in it when I washed it.

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The other thing I realized was how bulky the bottom cup seam is where the powernet of the band and the duoplex/lace of the bridge meet. I doubled the powernet in the band, which also meant that the bra was more supportive, but I also doubled the duoplex in the bridge, as well, to ensure the support there, too.

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Super bulky seam that I didn’t trim down. The sewing is less than stellar in that area. The problem with sewing with duoplex and powernet and lace is that ripping out seams is almost impossible without destroying the fabric so I left it. My technique only gets better with every bra so I know this will be remedied in future versions.

The other issue I seem to have with the sewing is in the straps:

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The straps are sewn to the powernet with a double lightening stitch. This one is actually better than my wedding bra version, but you can see that I didn’t quite catch the powernet in the second row. In spite of using pins, the three layers move about a lot. I need to figure out how to improve my technique there. It works, but I am worries about the longevity of the bra in that area.

The other thing to note is how narrow the bridge is:

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The underwires actually overlap in this area, but I have no issue with comfort from that.

For my wedding bra, I left out the lace on the bridge and made sure I clipped the seams to reduce the bulk. I clipped one side of the doubled duoplex and powernet so that I was only sewing over one of each within the 1/4 inch seam allowance. I also further increased the lower cup and the upper cup. I decided not to increase the band, but I have done it for the next version, including increasing the upper cup and lower cup again. Geez, how big are my boobs?!

You can see the seam is much smoother on this version:

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This version is an even better fit. The bridge is almost flat against my breastbone (only a 1/4 inch out now). I haven’t spent a lot of time wear it, because I am saving it for my wedding mostly. I did wear it for a day last week to make sure I wouldn’t have a problem for my wedding day, though. It fits will and is very pretty. The only issue is I derped and put in the hook and eye wrong so I will be fixing it this weekend, because I can’t hook it very well this way since I am used to the other way.

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Here are more balloon pictures:

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You can see that the cup is even bigger in this version, because of the bagginess in the cup against the balloon.

Here are some lovely detail shots:

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Oh and the crappy job I did on the straps (even worse than the last time!):

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The interesting comparison here is this bra to the original cloned one:

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It’s pretty similar in terms of length.

Here are all my cloned bras so far with the most recent on top:

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I feel like they are getting a lot better with every step. I’m really pleased to see my skill increase. So much more room to grow (damn straps), but it’s getting there.

From here, I basically want to make all the bras. I will hold off for a while, though…cuz wedding…and see how these wear. I have enough materials for another two bras minus one pair of wires. Then in the future, I’m hoping to try foam bras and bras for my swimwear plans.

Also in the series:

April: The Wedding Dress, pt. 1: The Design, the Muslin, the Fabric, and the Outfit

May: The Wedding Dress, pt. 2: Construction and Details

June: The Flower Girl’s Dress and Sash

Stay tuned for:

July: Wedding!

The Wedding Dress, pt. 3: The Reveal and the Day.

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23 thoughts on “The Wedding Lingerie

  1. Very pretty bras – I love the use of lace on the pink one! It’s funny how something that you would ordinarily think is strange (your crossed wires) ends up making a great fitting bra! I recently picked up Beverley’s new bra course on Craftsy and she talks about altering your pattern to make a partial band bra so you don’t need to deal with lots of layers under the cups. I’ve made three now and they are just so comfy! Love ’em! Maybe a project to try after your wedding!!

  2. You did a lovely job on these bras! You are going to feel so wonderful on your big day in your wedding bra! Also- little tip that I do for sewing on the straps to the back of the powernet in the scoop- What I do is overlap the strap elastic completely with the powernet – so that the raw edge of your powernet is at the outside edge of your strap elastic- then you sew on the inner edge of the strap and the centre (like you did) and then when you flip it over you will almost definitely catch it- and you can just trim off the little excess. It works for me 🙂

  3. Absolutely Gorgeous Bras! I started by cloning, too. Congrats on all you have learned and your accomplishments. I can relate 🙂 I have a few suggestions to pass on that helped me when encountering some of the difficulties you mentioned:
    1. Stabilizing bridge: I use sheer nylon stabilizer rather than doubling duplex – reduces bulk significantly. I glue stick or use 505 spray quilt basting glue to keep layers together there and sometimes I use MistyFuse.
    2. Preventing lace tears: How heartbreaking on such a beautiful bra! I now underline lace with sheer pale peach or nude nylon tricot – it has plenty of give but keeps my lace from tearing and is invisible.
    3. Increasing powernet band strength: Fabricdepotco.com sells some super heavy duty “supernet” that is great for larger bras-it’s very firm, yet still comfy. gets me out of doubling regular powernet. I think it’s dyeable, but not 100% sure on that.
    I use the same technique as Erin when attaching the straps.
    Keep up your great work and have a wonderful wedding!

    • Thanks so much for all the tips! I got some sheer lining fabric for the lace. The powernet I use is already really firm, but I don’t find it gives me as much support as doubling it. Just trimming the seams in that area helped reduce the bulk greatly without issue. 🙂

      Where did you get your nylon stabilizer for the bridge? I’d love to use something like that.

      • I’ve used several sources, Bravobellabras is selling it now, as does fabricdepotco.com and bramakerssupply.com

  4. Hello my darling, you have done a wonderful job with your bras. I specially love how you use the balloons to present them! 😉 I agree with Erin the powernet should be on the outside of the strap when you sew it and I sew the middle row before the bottom one.
    Have a great week! 🙂
    ❤ M

  5. These look awesome, Andie! I need to make a few more bras, the more I wear the ones I have made the more things I realize i want to tweak (which is awesome because they will fit better, yay!). Also, I love your use of lace, I need to get more creative with my bras! I have my foam cups all sorted out (well, for the most part) as we chatted about on instagram that time, but I definitely want to work on including some foam cups and an underwire in a swimsuit this summer like you mentioned. Have you looked into any patterns that already have that included? I have some thoughts about how to connect my TNT pantie and bra patterns to make a one piece, but that kind of sounds like a lot of drafting.

    • Thanks so much, Megan. I haven’t seen any swimsuit patterns with the bra included, except for shelf bras. I’ve seen lots of bikinis with underwire bras. I think I will be using a regular swimsuit and adding in the bra. It means changing the back closure a bit so that the band elastic can get in there. Not sure if it will work, but, after shopping for swimsuits yesterday and laughing at the small underwire bras in the largest size, I need to have a well-fitted swimsuit. :/

  6. Pingback: The Wedding Dress, pt. 3: The Reveal and the Day | Sew Pretty in Pink

  7. Pingback: The Wedding Dress, pt. 1: The Design, the Muslin, the Fabric, and the Outfit | Sew Pretty in Pink

  8. Pingback: Wedding! | Sew Pretty in Pink

  9. Pingback: The Flower Girl’s Dress and Sash(es) | Sew Pretty in Pink

  10. I never thought of attempting my own bra when I got married! I found a lovely dress with princess seams and while it fit elsewhere but my bust area and the princess seam area for the bust were about 1-2″ away from each other. So I went bra hunting. In my feeble mind, I thought who makes bras for larger busted women? I’ll try Victoria’s Secret. So I walked in their store (my first and only foray) and asked about bras in my size and the clerks looked at me as if I was holding them up. Then they said, ‘we don’t carry that size, try Lane Bryant’. Well who would of thunk it. I was the girl that was laughed at in HS and college for being flat chested and now Victoria’s Secret is telling me I’m too big for their bras?!? All I can figure is their angels are flat chested nothings with supports pushed in their bras to make them look big. Lane Bryant had a bra I could use, but it was the most uncomfortable thing I had ever had on in my life. I could hardly waiting to get home and out of it!

    All that to say I admire you for not only making your wedding bra, but all those other clothes you make.

    • Sorry for the late reply. I’ve been on vacation. I’ve never been able to shop in stores like Victoria’s Secret. It’s too bad Lane Bryant never worked out for you. I admire their designs, but have never bought. I like Elomi bras the best for RTW, but they are a bit expensive. Did you end up finding a bra for your wedding that wasn’t uncomfortable?

I love comments, but sometimes I may be slow to respond/approve. I will respond though. :)

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