McCall’s 7094 and an evolving wardrobe

Back when I hacked my Cashmerette Springfield top into a pussybow, I kind of felt like my wardrobe was making some pretty substantial shifts in a new but not completely different direction. I’ve always leaned toward vintage-inspired looks and the way my wardrobe is going is not much different, but maybe a bit more “grown up.” I shudder at that, though, because I think if you are an adult everything you do and wear is adulting. If you choose to wear “twee” outfits, you are still an adult and, to me, there is nothing wrong with that, especially because I love wearing “twee” outfits. Right now, though, I have visions of gorgeous 1940s style blouses and blazers with either skirts or wide-legged, high waisted trousers or shirtdresses galore.

I want to use more lush fabrics like rayons and silks and linens and I want to use different techniques like pin tucks, lace insets, embroidery and I might make everything with ruffles or puffed sleeves…

I don’t think these changes will automatic, but you might notice it all over time. It’s going to fun no matter what because it means sewing and probably buying fabric. 😉

I’ve had McCall’s 7094 in my pattern stash for a really long time. Out of print but still available on the website. This was released at the end of 2014 (as per Michelle’s blog post) and I know I got it shortly after that, because that release contained a McCall’s 7084, which I used for my wedding dress and started early in 2015. It goes to show you how often I buy patterns and how often I use patterns….

This pattern just sort of got moved off my sewing list and back on a few times and never quite made it because of shiny things.

I  made M7094 in view D, but with shorter sleeves. I used XXL. According to the size chart, XXL is 24/26 or 46/48 inches at the bust. I am 51 inches at the bust, but the pattern runs large so it fit fine at the bust. However, I did make adjustments to the sleeves and widen them at the sleeve head for a puffed sleeve look.

 

The fit is just as expected. It’s a loose-fitting top that skims over my hips. I think there are some improvements for next time. The back is a bit tight on me and for someone with a narrow back that is a bit weird… The pattern called for cutting out one yoke, but that would have not been very pretty inside so I cut 2 yokes and used the burrito method. It’s possible that is causing the back to feel a bit tighter than the pattern intended. I will also lower the armsyce a bit since it is a little pinchy. This is also not often an issue that I have. I usually use smaller sizes and then do an FBA so I am confused why this issue is popping up just with this top. I haven’t read through all the pattern reviews to know if it common. Both are easy enough fixes, though. The other strange thing is that the sleeve hem is a bit off and doesn’t sit straight. I think the likely issue there is because of the armsyce so I will correct that first and then see if the sleeve hem corrects itself becuase it is not being pulled up by a too-tight armsyce.

Let’s talk about that collar. I fucking love that collar. It was incredibly difficult to put in, but thanks to the genius suggestion of using a glue stick for collars from a few people in Instagram stories (Makerheart, Closet Case Files, True Bias and a few others that I can’t remember sorry). I freaked out over this tip and started using it for everything. Talk about a game changer. Now the collar sits a bit higher than the model in the pattern picture, but I like where it is sitting so I don’t want to mess with that.


I am trying to remember to pull my hair out of the way for pictures of the back of garments but I forget so I often have two pictures of the back. Haha. Also, how long is my hair? Sheesh. I’ve taken some pictures lately and I think I understand why people keep commenting about the length. Oh and I have bangs now! I am in love with them. I’ve had bangs before but never with long hair like this and I really love the look.

The placket was incredibly difficult to sew in as well. It has pleats in it. The instructions were also just not making sense to me. I think I will use a different method next time since this method has raw edges on the inside. I prefer the method where you are hiding them all within the placket itself and then sewing an “x” in a box on the front side. I should have just gone with my instincts and used that method, but I was trying to follow directions. In the end, I just ended up moving the raw edges inside and topstitching over the bottom edge. It’s not the prettiest finish, but you can’t really tell.

I love the hem of the shirt. I have another garment to share soon with a similar hem so it seems like I am being drawn to these types of hems lately.

The fabric I used is a poly crepe in navy with orange squiggly lines. It’s not the best material to wear for say…Summer, but it works in my office. I really love the look of the top tucked into a skirt.

It’s definitely going to become a classic in my wardrobe.

TL:DR Review

  • Pattern: McCall’s 7094
  • Pros: Fits larger than the pattern sizes indicate. Loose-fitting top with lots of great details and that collar!
  • Cons: Fits larger than the pattern sizes indicate… So look at the finished garment measurements for a size with the amount of ease you like. Confusing placket instructions (or maybe that was me…).
  • Make again?: I already have fabric for another!
  • Rating: pink-star-black-md pink-star-black-mdpink-star-black-mdpink-star-black-md4/5 stars
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10 thoughts on “McCall’s 7094 and an evolving wardrobe

  1. I love the way this top turned out on you! I had this pattern for awhile and even matched it up with fabric for about three years but wasn’t sure how it would turn out. One question- did you lengthen it? I like that length on you. You just inspired me to get to making something for myself again as I am in need of tops.

  2. I am so impressed! In 5 years of garment sewing, this pattern (THAT COLLAR) is the only thing I have given up on….. it was in a shifty rayon, though, and before I knew about spray starch, so maybe I should revisit it…. well done! ✅

    • The collar almost finished me but the washable glue stick made a huge difference and it turned out so nicely in the end. It is fiddly but worth it. Thank you so much!

  3. Oh wow! Now your talkin “my” style – LOL!

    I- love- this- top!
    I can’t stand collars on my neck!

    I might have used a contrasting fabric for trim and yoke. (not that you should have, yours looks great) I get so bored with using the same fabric! :o)

    On your sleeves I was just wondering- how about a bit of elastic (going around inside the sleeve) about 4 ” up from the bottom of the sleeve, to give a bit of flouncy “gather” on the sleeve end? Like on a poets shirt. You wouldn’t need the elastic snug on your arm if that’s bothersome. (hope that makes sense lol!)

    • Thanks, Eliz! That’s a great idea for the sleeves on the next one. 🙂 And I am definitely going to go with contrasting fabric for the collar as well. I think it would look fabulous. ❤

  4. Your style is morphing in a similar direction as my own. I’m thinking that if we do end up moving to Portland, I will probably start wearing a lot more dresses & skirts. (They are hard to wear in Kansas because it’s so ridiculously windy here.) But yes to ruffles, pintucks, lace, embroidery, insets, etc etc. This shirt you made looks great tucked into a skirt!

    • Thanks, Ciara! I just ordered a ridiculous amount of lace from ebay for lace insets. I think I might convert the shoulder pleats on this top to pintucks and then do a bunch of lace insets. 🙂 I may also need more skirts…. 😉

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